Can You Use Weed And Feed Fertilizer After Seeding

One look at your local garden center’s fertilizer aisle and you’re inundated with choices. We’ve taken the mystery out of starter fertilizers for you. Knowing when to fertilize new grass is critical. Apply lawn fertilizer too early or to late, and your new grass will underperform or die. How to take care of a lawn after you've put down the seed.

9 FAQs About Applying Starter Fertilizer to Your Lawn

Whether you are planting new grass from scratch or repairing bare spots, figuring out a proper fertilizer to get your lawn off to the best start can be daunting. Here are the answers to 9 FAQs about applying starter fertilizer to your lawn.

One look at your local garden center’s fertilizer aisle and you’re inundated with choices for producing your vibrant lawn. We’ve taken the mystery out of starter fertilizers for you.

Our Top Picks for Starter Fertilizers:

1. What is Starter Fertilizer?

Starter lawn fertilizer is a small quantity of fertilizer nutrients applied near the seed at planting. It helps your grass seedlings and sod roots establish more rapidly in the soil than regular fertilizer, leading to a thick new lawn in a short period.

Starter fertilizers for grass may differ slightly in composition, but they all give the grass seeds and new sod the nutritional boost required for healthy germination and rapid root growth. They will usually contain equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. However, some types contain two parts of nitrogen and one part of phosphorus and potassium.

You can choose between slow-release and quick-release formulations, with the latter delivering a quick green-up dose of nitrogen. It can be applied to all-new lawns, or to help bare spots recover from winterkill or other damage.

What is the Difference Between Starter Fertilizer and Regular Fertilizer?

According to David M. Kopec of the University of Arizona Extension, the main difference is the amount of phosphorus in the fertilizer. Starter fertilizers usually contain 20 percent more phosphorus than regular fertilizers.

2. What is a Good Starter Fertilizer for Grass Seed and Sod?

Starter fertilizers for lawns come in different compositions of the primary nutrients nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P-phosphate), and potassium (K-potash), or the three numbers listed on the package (NPK ratio).

The numbers list the percentage of each nutrient contained in the starter fertilizer for grass. For example, an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-10 contains 10 percent each of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.

When it comes to the specific job of each of these primary nutrients in regards to the health of your turf:

  • Nitrogen: Is required for satisfactory growth and green coloration.
  • Phosphorous: Plays an important role in various growth processes including good root development.
  • Potassium: Promotes good disease resistance, tolerance of drought, and winter hardiness in turfgrass.

Some examples of the formulations of common starter fertilizers for lawns are 10-10-10, 20-10-10, and 16-8-8. Penn State Extension notes that analyses of 15-10-10 or 10-6-4 are also acceptable used as starter fertilizers for grass, as they also promote good early growth and grass development.

3. Can you Apply a Starter Fertilizer to Grass Seed and Sod?

“Yes, both seed and sod,” states Peter Landschoot, Ph.D., professor of turfgrass science at Penn State Extension.

Seed: At the seedling stage, “Grasses need greater amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus than mature grass plants because seedlings are producing new tissues rapidly and thus have higher energy and nutrition requirements.” Overseeding a lawn will take more time, but sod will be more expensive.

Sod: “Even though sod is mostly composed of mature turf, many of the roots have been severed during the harvesting operation,” Landschoot says. Some nitrogen and phosphorus (as starter fertilizer) applied to the soil before the sod is laid should help hasten the development of new roots.”

4. Is it Best to Get a Soil Test First to See Phosphorus Levels?

Landschoot notes, “Because soil-test levels of phosphorus don’t change much over short periods, you can collect soil samples and submit them to a test lab to determine phosphorus levels within a year of establishing turf.”

Nearly all extension service offices offer low-cost soil testing services. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Office for details. Soil samples can be collected at any time during the year as long as the soil is not frozen. Ideally, you want to collect soil and submit the sample(s) to a test lab as close to the time of establishment as possible.

Pro Tip: Make sure to leave time to get the test back with the phosphorus and other recommendations. It can take 1-3 days or up to two weeks to get results, depending on the test. You’ll need a few extra days to buy fertilizers and make necessary adjustments to the soil before planting your new lawn.

5. Is There a Standard Amount of Starter Fertilizer I Should Use?

If you didn’t get a soil test to determine how much starter fertilizer to use for your lawn, Landschoot offers these general recommendations:

  • “Starter fertilizers should be applied at 0.5 to 1 lb. nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Amounts in excess of 1.5 lb. nitrogen per 1,000 square feet can burn the young turf and result in poor establishment.”

Quick-release nitrogen will speed up seedling development.

Pro Tip: Landschoot notes, “Application of a starter fertilizer is not a substitute for the phosphate and potash recommended on your soil test report.”

6. Are There Circumstances Where you Shouldn’t Use a Starter Fertilizer?

  • You should not use starter fertilizer in areas where you cannot control runoff. Nitrogen and phosphorus from indiscriminate use of fertilizers have caused such great environmental concerns that about half the states in the U.S. have imposed regulations on fertilizer use.
  • Don’t use starter fertilizer if your soil test shows it’s not needed. Instead, apply 1-2 inches of organic fertilizer, such as a biosolids fertilizer or manure-based compost, and work into the soil before establishing your new turf. These amendments contain significant amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus to get your new lawn off to a healthy start.

Pro Tip: It’s common for homeowners to apply lawn fertilizer, depending on where they live, in the spring, but not before the grass greens up.

Once your healthy lawn has been established, fertilize every six to eight weeks. The best time is late spring for warm-season grasses (e.g., centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass, and Zoysiagrass) and fall for cool-season grasses (e.g., Kentucky bluegrass and tall and fine fescues).

Follow good lawn care maintenance such as aeration and mowing heights to keep your lawn healthy and beautiful.

7. When Should you Apply Starter Fertilizer?

Apply starter fertilizer before seeding or laying sod, or after you plant the new grass seed. You don’t want to apply it directly to newly planted sod or burning can occur.

Note: Wait six to eight weeks before applying another dose of balanced fertilizer to your grass after planting so it doesn’t burn the grass.

When it comes to knowing how much starter fertilizer for the grass, you’ll need a soil test. The three most important nutrients required for good growth and health of your turfgrass are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which a starter fertilizer contains.

It’s best to till the fertilizer 4 to 6 inches into the soil along with any additional amendments you are adding. You can also spread it over the site immediately after planting your new grass seed.

Pro Tip: When phosphorus and potassium are applied only to the surface of the soil they cannot move down into the soil fast enough and nitrogen can easily be leached out before the grass even Has a chance to uptake its nutrients.

8. Can I Use a Starter Fertilizer for Grass That is Established?

Probably not. Although you can use a starter fertilizer for a lawn that is established, it’s better to use a well-balanced fertilizer designed specifically for grass that is established.

Starter fertilizer might not contain all the required nutrients for continued growth and good health. It won’t hurt the grass but might lack the needed nutrients that a well-balanced fertilizer for continued lawn maintenance contains.

9. How do you Apply Starter Fertilizer?

If you’re planting sod, apply a fertilizer before you put down the sod. If you’re planting seed, apply a fertilizer either before or after planting the seed.

  • If you apply starter fertilizer before planting grass seed or sod:
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Pour the required amount into a standard fertilizer spreader and evenly apply the starter fertilizer over the planting site. Once applied, work the product 4 to 6 inches into the soil.

  • If you apply starter fertilizer after you’ve planted grass seed:

Use the fertilizer spreader and apply it over the soil. Then water in the fertilizer.

There are different types of fertilizer applications. You can choose between liquid or granular. Both supply the essential nutrients; however, Michigan State University recommends liquid application.

Granular fertilizers can be inconsistent in spreading and can be “hot,” burning young plants that are nearby. Follow directions on your chosen fertilizer to verify the best application process.

Pro Tip: If you’re overseeding or using sod, avoid weed and feed fertilizers for four weeks or until your third mowing. The herbicides may prevent root development in your new grass seeds.

Wait Time: On average, grass seed takes about 10 to 14 days to germinate, but it can take up to 30 days.

Phosphorus and its Role in a New Lawn

When it comes to explaining phosphorus and its role, Landschoot notes, ”Phosphorus is included in starter fertilizer primarily to enhance root development. Some research shows little influence of phosphorus on turf establishment in soils containing adequate to high levels of soil-test phosphorus; whereas other studies show benefits even when phosphorus levels are adequate.

Generally, developing seedlings growing in compact soils during cold temperatures are thought to benefit more from phosphorus in starter fertilizer.

Nitrogen, Organic Matter, and a New Lawn

If your lawn is not rich in natural organic matter, nitrogen plays an important role. Landschoot notes, “In cases where soils are not amended with compost, nitrogen is almost always needed for rapid establishment.

Our research shows a greater influence of nitrogen compared to phosphorus on the rate of turf establishment, so if you can’t use phosphorus (or you think there is enough phosphorus in the soil), an application of 1 lb. quick-release nitrogen per 1,000 square feet will speed up seedling development.”

Hire a Professional

If you’re a homeowner that isn‘t down to DIY or you’re frustrated with the progress of your garden oasis, you can hire a lawn care professional to get your dream lawn started while you relax.

Main image credit: Jay Crihfield / Adobe Stock

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Joyce Starr

Joyce Starr has been writing on horticultural and landscaping topics for over 15 years. In addition, for the past 20 years she’s owned and operated a landscaping and design business. She shares her experience and passion for all things green through her writing.

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When to Fertilize New Grass for Best Results

Growing grass generally doesn’t take an agonizing amount of effort. But cultivating a new lawn requires a certain level of diligence to give grass seed the best chance to germinate and thrive. It is also important for roots to grow deep into the soil in order to form a well-established lawn. In this article I’ll explain when to fertilize new grass so that you can enjoy the best results.

The key benefit of a well-established lawn is that it will be hardy and more resistant to inclement conditions.

Fertilizer provides grass seed or newly germinated grass with concentrated nutrients. While you could introduce fertilizer at any time (or not at all), fertilizing grass at just the right times in the growth cycle can put your grass into “hulk mode” – if you will. The nutrients available in fertilizers also come in varying percentages that can be more beneficial for different stages of growth. Choosing a fertilizer that is too highly concentrated can actually burn your lawn!

Why Should I Fertilize New Grass?

Fertilizers contain essential nutrients that can improve overall soil health in your area. The main nutrients in fertilizer are potassium (K), nitrogen (N), and phosphorus (P). Healthy soil is more resistant to weeds, pests, fungus, erosion, runoff, and patchy grass. Soil that lacks the essential nutrients can be difficult growing medium.

That being said, too much can lead to burning and using the wrong fertilizer can have far-reaching effects on the soil in your area.

When the ground is saturated with the nutrients found in fertilizer, it can end up leaking through to the water table and lead to runoff. Runoff of fertilizer chemicals has been found to be responsible for toxic algae blooms in local ponds and lakes that are harmful to people and pets. For this reason, fertilizers are often highly regulated and often only certain amounts can be purchased at a time.

How to Choose the Best Fertilizer for New Grass

There are two main types of fertilizer to start with: regular (or slow-release) fertilizer and starter (or quick release) fertilizer. Consider the dietary needs of humans in different age groups: the needs of a baby are far different from an adult.

“Weed and Feed” fertilizers contain herbicides such as corn gluten to prevent weeds from germinating. This is an important fertilizer to take note of and avoid when planting new grass seed because most of these will also prevent your grass seed from germinating!

My Recommended Starter Fertilizer for New Grass

Crabgrass is everywhere in my area, so my favorite fertilizer to use when seeding a new section of lawn is Scott’s Turf Builder Starter Fertilizer + Crabgrass Preventer.

Unlike many other weed and feed products, this fertilizer does not harm new grass as it germinates, but it does (at least in my experience) successfully block crabgrass and other common weeds for 4-6 weeks to give your new grass time to establish itself. One bag goes a long way too.

Understanding The Nutrients in Lawn Fertilizer

There are three main nutrients in lawn fertilizer. Every fertilizer has a different ratio of these nutrients, and these ratios are on fertilizer packaging as a set of three numbers separated by dashes.

The sequence of numbers indicates the amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, respectively and are thus known as NPK ratios.

If you see three numbers on a bag of lawn fertilizer, those numbers will be listed in this order:

Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium

A soil test can help you determine what type of fertilizer will best support your lawn’s health, just make sure you buy a kit that goes beyond simple PH levels and measures these three nutrient levels like this one.

What These 3 Key Nutrients Do to Support New Grass
  • Nitrogen is important for the leaf growth you see above ground and helps grass look greener.
  • Phosphorus is responsible for promoting root growth below the ground and is important for getting a lawn established.
  • Potassium prevents disease and makes the grass more resilient.

New grass seeds need a starter fertilizer that has a higher level of phosphorus and nitrogen that is quick-release, thus readily available for the seeds to absorb.

Quick-release nitrogen also helps seeds absorb more potassium. Some areas actually restrict phosphorus usage exclusively to those starting new lawns.

Fertilizer Ratios for Established Lawns

An established lawn thrives best with a fertilizer that is high in nitrogen. Mature lawns don’t really need much potassium or phosphorus, so you will look for a ratio with a large first number and smaller second and third number. For example, a 30-0-0 or a 27-3-3 ratio would be most appropriate for an established lawn that you want to green up and look beautiful.

Starter Fertilizer Ratios for New Grass Seed

A good starter fertilizer for new lawns should be closer to a 21 – 22 – 4 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and those nutrients should be quick-release so they’re accessible to your seedlings right away to help your new lawn establish itself as quickly as possible.

Potash commonly found in soil is a source of potassium, so it is common for the levels of potassium in fertilizer to be very low.

When to Fertilize New Grass

It is important to make sure that your soil has the appropriate nutrients for new grass seed prior to dispersing the seed itself.

See also  California Weed Seeds

So, after preparing your soil for seed or sod, the last step before planting is to fertilize the soil with a starter fertilizer. This can be done before you lay seed or sod, or at the same time.

After you apply starter fertilizer, don’t reapply it. The ratios of nutrients can actually be harmful and burn established grass. I recommend using a traditional, nitrogen-rich organic fertilizer 6-8 weeks after planting new grass.

While you may be eager to fertilize again to encourage growth, fertilizing too often is harmful. It can burn your grass, leach into the water table, and more. It’s important to wait a minimum of four to six weeks before another application of fertilizer, and I recommend 6-8 weeks.

My Process for Seeding a New Lawn

  1. Dethatch and Aerate the lawn if needed.
  2. If lawn does not need to be dethatched, use an iron rake to loosen the soil and remove dead grass.
  3. Remove any dead grass from the area you will be seeding.
  4. Apply starter fertilizer evenly across the area you will be seeding.
  5. Apply a generous amount of grass seed that is appropriate for your area and the growing conditions of your lot.
  6. Use the back of a leaf rake to gently work the seed into contact with the loosened soil
  7. Apply 1/4″ – 1/2″ of compost loosely over the grass seed to retain moisture and provide nutrients to the new grass seedlings
  8. Water to keep compost and seedlings moist until well established.
  9. After grass seedlings are established, water less frequently and more deeply to promote root growth.
  10. Mow once grass seedlings are about 3″ tall, removing 1/2″ – 3/4″ of grass blades with a sharp mower blade. Bag these clippings and remove.
  11. Mow again once grass gets to 3″ again, removing no more than 1″.
  12. Apply nitrogen-rich organic fertilizer 6-8 weeks after seeding (optional).
Should You Fertilize Again in the Fall?

An application of a fertilizer that has a modest amount of slow-release nitrogen in the fall can help to bolster your grass before the coming winter. It’s important to make sure that this is done well before the first frost, so no later than November 1st for southern states and an even earlier cutoff for northern states.

Fertilizing with nitrogen before snow can create snow mold and kill your lawn which landscaper Roger Cooke discusses in the video below:

When spring rolls around again, if you already have an established lawn, then the best time to fertilize will be when grass has greened up and you’ve been able to mow a couple of times. Do this about 6 weeks after overseeding. Use regular fertilizer that has a higher ratio of nitrogen.

In late spring and early summer, if your lawn has been a little bit neglected and needs a boost then you can apply a slow-release fertilizer in 45 to 60 day intervals.

My Preferred Slow-Release Organic Lawn Fertilizers

I use either Purely Organic Lawn Food or Milorganite on my lawn – both are effective organic options.

Compost is the best and most natural fertilizer that you can have available at your fingertips, and I try to apply a thin layer of compost to my entire lawn at least once every two years.

Using a dark, rich, and loose compost at least once every three or four years in the early fall can increase the nutrients in your soil naturally.

My town has an organic composting center where residents bring leaf and grass clippings, and residents are able to enjoy free screened compost in whatever quantity they need.

If you don’t have access to this, contact your local nursery – they can probably deliver screened compost to you. If you have a small yard, split a delivery with your neighbors.

How Do I Fertilize New Grass Seed?

Start by weeding the area that you will be planting in, then gently rake the top layer of soil to loosen it.

This is when to fertilize new grass seed. You can apply fertilizer to the soil, or you can do it at the same time as while you spread grass seed.

Spread your grass seed; a popular method is using a broadcast spreader.

Cover the seeds with a very fine layer of soil either by raking in one direction or sprinkling a little layer of soil using the same broadcast spreader. A very light watering is okay, just make sure not to uncover the seeds from their blanket of soil.

Growing, Growing, Gone

In summary, a lawn starter fertilizer high in phosphorus and quick-releasing nitrogen is ideal for starting a lawn from seed.

Regular slow-release fertilizer that is rich in nitrogen is best for planting sod or giving your existing lawn a boost. It is best to apply starter fertilizer just before, or at the same time as planting grass seed. Follow-up at least four to six weeks later with a regular fertilizer.

More frequent application can be harmful to your lawn and the environment, so don’t overdo it.

A final application of fertilizer in the fall before the first frost can also provide a beneficial boost for your grass through the winter and lead to more growth come spring. I like to use a phosphorus-heavy fertilizer in the fall to encourage deep root growth. This way my lawn is ready for an organic nitrogen treatment in the spring to green up beautifully.

Answered: When to Fertilize New Grass

Growing a thick and lush lawn that will be the envy of your neighborhood isn’t as complicated as it may seem.

Most grasses require only a small amount of maintenance to grow quite robust.

Properly timing the application of fertilizer can give you the most “bang for your buck.” It can also give your grass a boost in growth without burning your lawn or leading to harmful runoff.

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by Sarah The Lawn Chick

I’ve learned to love caring for my lawn naturally and enjoying it daily. On this blog I’ll share some of my best tips and tutorials to help you make your lawn the best on the block!

10 thoughts on “ When to Fertilize New Grass for Best Results ”

Hi Sarah,
I overseeded two weeks or more ago and am just now starting to see some of it grow. I didn’t fertilize immediately before or while planting. Is it too late to apply any fertilizer of any sort, starter, etc? For full disclosure of the situation, I had applied a weed and feed probably 5 to 6 weeks before planting seed, not realizing part of my lawn was only weed, which resulted in lots of brown, bare areas! That’s why I overseeded with Kentucky 31 Tall Fescue later. I’ve been watering everyday since planting.

Thank you!
Steve

Great question. The best time to fertilize new grass grown from seed is with a good starter fertilizer high in phosphorous right when you sow the seed, but if you missed that window and your grass has already germinated I’d recommend holding off until your new grass seedlings are about 1.5 inches tall. At that time, apply a good all-around lawn fertilizer that’s high in nitrogen.

Applying starter fertilizer to new grass risks burning your young seedlings, which is why it’s typically best to add those nutrients to the soil at the time of sowing your seed. This way the nutrients are accessible to your new shoots of grass, but have soaked in with your regular watering as you wait for your seed to germinate.

As I say in the article above, anyone who uses starter fertilizer when spreading seed should wait about 6 weeks to fertilize again, but in your circumstance (which is one a lot of people find themselves in), I’d suggest applying a good all-around lawn fertilizer when your new grass seedlings are almost an inch and a half in height. Something organic and slow release is the safest option as you won’t risk burning your new grass with that, even if you over-apply by mistake. If you choose to go with something synthetic, go light with the first application (0.5 – 1 pound of Nitrogen per 1,000 square feet). You can read my recommendations for organic lawn fertilizers right here, and if you’re not sure of the square footage of your yard, here’s a list of some online tools you can use to get accurate measurements of different areas of your lawn.

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Hi, I’ve got a new lawn that was planted about 3 weeks ago. I have been watering on a regular basis. It’s coming in nice and thick in spots but other spots it seems like it’s just starting to grow.or even some spots bare. Is there something I can put on it to boost it up. Or leave as is… thanks for any advice

Thanks for the comment. When you’re seeding a new lawn it’s pretty common to get some spots here and there that are thin or bare. This is something you’ll just want to spot-treat with some more seed and peat moss to get those spots to fill in – that’s my best advice. If you’re growing a grass that spreads via rhizomes, the thin areas should take care of themselves over time … but I’d still probably get some of the same seed you used to patch the bare spots and get some grass growing there too.

This happens to everyone when seeding a new lawn – it’s part of the process. Wind, rain, birds, a funny bump with your spreader, or just a heavy hand with the rake when raking in your seed can all cause some sections to get a little less seed than others. Patch ’em now and in 3 more weeks you’ll have a beautiful lawn! Good luck

We have been following our local seed & garden store’s advice on a new lawn- no fertilizer till 3rd mowing., then apply starter fertilizer. So far it looks beautiful. They said to then apply a regular fertilizer after 6 more weeks. As we just read your advice and it differs should we do anything different since the starter fertilizer was applied later? What fertilizer should we switch to?

Thanks for the comment and I’m so glad your new lawn is coming in well. If you’re having good results based on their advice I’d probably recommend you stick with it. 6 Weeks after you applied starter fertilizer sounds right to me.

Personally, I like to go organic/slow-release with my regular lawn fertilizer so I’d follow-up what you’ve done with something along those lines. I like Milorganite, Purely Organic Lawn Food, or Espoma’s organic lawn fertilizer – any of those will work well for you. Follow the application rate on the bag, and if you want to get an accurate square footage size on different areas of your lawn, these tools can help you do that.

We have a new sod laid down by our builder in our new build home at the end of September in Ottawa, Ontario. I am trying to water once every day since it isn’t too warm anymore here. When is it a good time to over-seed or fertilize the new grass using Fall food before Winters and how long should I wait before the grass is established? The temperatures have started to lower a bit already. Thanks.

For cool-season lawns I like to do my final fertilizer application of the year (fall lawn food) in late October or Early November. Since you’re pretty far north I’d say any time between now and the end of the month is fine.

Since it’s brand new sod my guess is you won’t have to overseed right away, so you can probably do that next year – either in the spring or (ideally) in the fall.

Hi Sarah;
I also missed the fertilizer at the time of new seed, and now grass is about 1″ tall, should I apply “Scotts starter fertilizer (since its first time I am planning to grow grass) or just the one you suggested with high nitrogen ?

If your grass is growing well I’d probably hold off and give it a shot in the arm with one of the organic fertilizers I mentioned above in the article. I would apply it after you do the first mow, once your grass is 3″ or taller. Bag those clippings, then feed it with the slow-release fertilizer. At this time of year a fall fertilizer is a good alternative to those I mentioned above (though they’ll work fine as well). Some of the fall lawn fertilizers have some extra phosphorus to help with root development, which may help since you skipped the starter fertilizer with that.

Sometimes a quick-release starter fertilizer after your young grass is already growing can burn it, which is why I recommend applying something else after your seedlings are more established.

Care and Maintenance of a Lawn after Seeding

Care after lawn renovation, for at least the first two months, is important for successful seeding. Changing weather patterns in Maryland including warmer than normal temperatures in late summer and fall, fluctuating periods of very wet, and then very dry weather are making seeding more challenging even during the recommended time for lawn projects. Seeding in the fall and then again in the spring may be necessary for a thicker lawn if all of the seed did not germinate and grow with your first attempt.

Watering

    is critical to successful lawn establishment. Once wet and seed germination has begun do not let the seed dry out. Postpone reseeding an area during a drought if irrigation cannot be provided.
  • A newly seeded lawn requires daily watering during dry periods.
  • When conditions are windy and dry, the planted area may require several light waterings a day. Pay special attention to soil moisture on hot, windy days, when humidity is low.
  • Sandy soils dry out quickly and require more frequent irrigation. Watering with a light mist is best. The idea is to keep the top layer of soil moist but not saturated.
  • As seedlings grow and mature, the frequency of watering is decreased, but the duration of watering is increased. The water now needs to be available at the root zone and should penetrate the soil so that the top 4-6 inches of soil is moist.
  • It is best to water earlier in the day so leaf blades do not remain wet overnight.

Mowing

    is an important part of a lawn maintenance program that is often overlooked. Mowing lawns too short (scalping), or infrequently, causes grass to become susceptible to drought injury, weed infestations (especially crabgrass), and foot traffic injury.
  • Begin to mow the new turf when it reaches a height one-third higher than the normal mowing height (e.g., if a 3-inch height is desired, mow when the turf reaches 4 inches). Typically, under optimum growing conditions, this is four to six weeks after seeding. And when mowing during the season follow the “one-third” rule. Remove only one-third of the vegetation (measure from the soil line to the blade tips) at each mowing. Removing too much of the leaf blade at each cutting stresses the new lawn.
  • Soil should be dry enough so that ruts are not formed by the wheels of the lawnmower.
  • Mower blades should be sharp, so a clean cut is made.
  • Generally, mowing needs to be done on a weekly basis during the growing season.

Fertilizing

    applied according to soil test results during the initial seeding period is sufficient for 6-8 weeks. Follow-up applications of fertilizer are made as part of a regular maintenance program. For cool-season turf, if the seeding was done in the fall, fertilizer cannot be applied later than November 15th. For seed sown in spring, do not apply after June 1st. Refer to the University of Maryland Extension home lawn fertilizer schedule.

Weeds

  • Tilling the seedbed exposes dormant weed seeds to water and light prompting them to start to grow. Competition from weeds is greatest on turf sown in early spring. Hand pull the weeds in small areas.
  • Grass seedlings are sensitive to chemical injury, so broadleaf herbicides should not be applied until the lawn has been mowed at least three or four times. Follow label directions.

Traffic

  • Young seedlings are easily injured. Newly seeded areas should be restricted from foot traffic for a least a month after the seed has germinated or until the new lawn has been mowed at least a couple of times.

By Debra Ricigliano, Maryland Certified Professional Horticulturist, University of Maryland Extension Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), 2019. Reviewed and edited by Jon Traunfeld, HGIC Director.
Based on HGIC publication HG 102 Lawn Establishment, Renovation, and Overseeding