THE BASICS Like almost everything else about growing excellent Cannabis, germinating your seeds successfully is pretty simple. We’ve used this very basic, inexpensive method for many years and have shared it among thousands of growers worldwide who have all had excellent results with no issues. First make a mix in the Wondering what kind of water would be best for germinating cannibis seeds. Bottled ? Distilled ? Spring ? Rain ? Purified ? Tap(aireated to remove chlorine…
Like almost everything else about growing excellent Cannabis, germinating your seeds successfully is pretty simple. We’ve used this very basic, inexpensive method for many years and have shared it among thousands of growers worldwide who have all had excellent results with no issues.
First make a mix in the ratio of 1/3 3% hydrogen peroxide to 2/3 distilled water.
It’s important to use only distilled water – some of the common chemicals in tap water can stunt, warp or kill your plant even well past seedling stage when you’ve already spent weeks tending it.
Then soak your seeds in the distilled water/hydrogen peroxide mixture overnight. If you’re growing multiple varieties, be sure to soak them separately. (Don’t laugh. It’s happened.)
Next, pour some of the soak water onto really absorbent paper towels, then wring or squeeze them out lightly and lay them flat. We use 2-3 towels layered together to make a nice thick absorbent nest.
The best seeds often sink and compromised seeds sometimes float, but there are always exceptions to the rule.
Then sprinkle the soaked seeds, using a clean spoon or gloved fingers, onto the moist paper towels, not crowding the seeds.
Then fold the moistened towels over the seeds to make a flat little package.
If you’re sprouting more than 12 seeds at a time, make more than one package – don’t crowd them.
Then put the moist towel and seeds flat inside a closed, unzipped storage-size plastic baggie, laying it flat somewhere away from direct light at room temperature.
In two or three days the seeds will sprout – maybe not all at once, but that’s not a problem because within 24 hours of the first seed sprouting all the others will have sprouted too. Keep your inspection peeks short as not to dehydrate the paper towel.
When the seeds each have a 3/4” root and the halves of the shell are beginning to open noticeably, meaning the embryo leaves are swelling inside, they’re ready.
You then want to move each sprouted seed into a Jiffy Cube you’ve prepared by making a small hole using a pencil or chopstick. Again – be sure you used distilled water to hydrate your Jiffy Cubes and of course use it everywhere else during germination.
Replanted into Jiffys:
Using your fingers, pick up the seed very gently by its shell, and avoid touching the sprouting root as you transfer it into the jiffy cube.
Also remember what’s unfolding inside that little shell as you handle it, be super delicate and stay conscious of the life emerging inside.
Now place the sprouting seed root-down in the hole letting it settle in naturally with the top of the seed even with the top of the hole – never push it down.
If it doesn’t nest right in, lift it out and poke the hole a little deeper. The cells at the tip of that little root hold the most miraculous ecosystem of emerging life one can imagine and while they are incredibly tough in nature they are also vulnerable to our mis-handling.
Now all you have to do is let the new sprouts do their thing they do so well, with a little help from their friends. With a day or so they will raise up their first leaves. Keep them lightly misted if you’re in a dry environment but don’t over-do it.
In a couple of days when they’ve developed their first set of true leaves, not the embryo leaves, it’s time to put them into larger pots with living soil and a mild fertilizer and then let the plants fully establish themselves.
3 Days Later:
10 Days Later:
The same Skunk #1 x Haze seeds are available at:
Is using distilled water really important for germination?
Using distilled water is probably the most important part of the germination process because well water, tap water, bottled water and even rainwater contain traces of contaminants that can inhibit germination and later vegetative growth and flowering.
High chlorine in tap water, herbicides in well water, phthalates in bottled water, as well as many other kinds of common water contaminants can kill or damage germinating seeds and will definitely affect your plant’s health, yield and flower quality.
Can I remove these contaminants with a garden hose filter?
Yes most of them you can. There are a variety of relatively inexpensive filters that screw onto the end of the garden hose that you use to fill containers and water your plants. Some have replaceable screens, while others use granular activated charcoal.
There are also screw-on systems with carbon block filters that run $20-$30 and are very effective at reducing chlorine and chloramine, and at removing pesticides, heavy metals, and herbicides.
What’s some of the science behind using Hydrogen Peroxide for germination?
Here are two core articles from the PubMed database:
“Different Modes of Hydrogen Peroxide Action During Seed Germination”
What water do you use to germinate .
Wondering what kind of water would be best for germinating cannibis seeds. Bottled ? Distilled ? Spring ? Rain ? Purified ? Tap(aireated to remove chlorine, ect..) .
I made sure to buy paper towells that had no chemicals or inks.
Any advice will be appreciated, thanks.
i use water from my faucet for every aspect of my plants. but i am on a flow well. no chlorine or bleach in my water. just minerals, and lots of sulpher (smells like eggs). good, natural, groundwater
I don’t soak or use paper towels and I have a nearly 100% germ rate within 3 or 4 days.
16 oz plastic cup, poke holes in bottom for drainage
Pro Mix (B’Cuzz, anything PH adjusted without nutes)
Glad Cling Wrap
1. Mix your medium with distilled water until it’s ready for planting – squeeze some lightly in your hand, it should retain its shape and the contours of your hand but not drip any water.
2. Fill the cup, covering the top and shaking up and down to get the medium compacted evenly. Fill to 1″ below top, pat down GENTLY.
3. Using the pen tip make a small hole in the center of the cup about 3/16″ deep.
4. Take the seed to good light and determine which end is scalloped (will open) and which end has the little dimple where it was attached to the plant (the hing). Place the seed gently in the top of the hole with the scallop side down, remove the refill from the pen and use the open end to fit over the seed and push down so it’s dimpled end is 1 millimeter below the surface. Use the tip of the pen to gently rough up the medium top and lightly cover the seed with 1 mm of medium.
5. Sprinkle 3 – 5 tablespoons of distilled water on top of the medium, soaking the entire surface.
6. Tear off a strip of cling wrap wide enough to cover the cup, tear the strip in two and use one half strip per cup. The good cling wrap will hug the lip of the cup and give you a great seal.
7. Put the cup in your flower room, if possible high enough to get direct light. This will give you a steaming effect, the inside of the cling wrap will become opaque with water vapor. The 12/12 cycle seems to help the seed split, I’ve found much better luck with this than 24 hours constant heat – perhaps because the heating and cooling in 12/12 closer mimics a natural enviroment.
8. Check the cup atleast 3 times a day – lights on/off/in middle – if the seed pops the surface and you don’t remove the cling wrap the stem stays bent for a few days. Filling the cup with medium to 1″ below the surface gives you some playing room, and space to add more medium if the stem needs support.
9. If the plant pops the surface and you have a white stem without the leaves you planted the seed upside down and you are looking at the root tip. If you catch it early enough you may be able to replant before the root dies.
10. Remember to label your cups.
Long winded and unasked for, but if anyone is having trouble with germinating this is a near idiot proof method.