Taproot Weed Seed

Organic weed management techniques described in detail. Basically a friend got some seeds. One was broken so he germinated it for shits and giggles (his real grow won't go on for another couple of months). Any… This definition explains the meaning of Taproot and why it matters.

Pulling weeds

Pulling weeds is a last resort when other methods of management have failed, or when a few escapes need to be removed to prevent seed production. For some small seeded, slow establishing crops like carrots or parsnips that do not transplant well, hand pulling is sometimes necessary to remove small weeds from around the young crop. In the latter case, the amount of hand weeding can be reduced by sowing slow emerging crops in relatively weed free areas of the garden and preceding planting with a short period of clean fallow to reduce weed density.

The best technique for pulling weeds depends on the type of weed and the situation. Small weeds are easiest to pull when the soil is wet (i.e., too wet for tillage). Keeping your weight off of the soil at such times is critical, however, to avoid destroying soil structure (Stay of soil). To pull small weeds from among small, fragile crop plants like young carrots, place a finger on the ground on both sides of the weed and pull with the other hand. This holds the soil in place, and prevents uprooting the crop along with the weed.

Species with strong taproots are also easiest to pull when the soil is wet, but again, care should be taken to avoid trampling the soil. Also, the crop should be dry to avoid spreading disease. Grasp the weed by the top of the taproot rather than by the stem or foliage. Then slowly pull straight up with a slight twisting motion. This will break the feeder roots free from the taproot and allow the taproot to be pulled up whole. A jerking pull will tend to break the root. Removing most of the root is critical since the plant will resprout from dormant buds in any large pieces that remain in the soil. The resulting complex root system will be impossible to pull and you will have to dig to remove it. Maintaining a high state of tilth is critical for hand pulling weeds with taproots (Tilth & weeding). If the soil is moist, loose and has a good crumb structure, even large dandelions can be pulled whole. If the soil is not in good condition or is not wet enough or the weed is really large, an asparagus knife, long trowel or narrow spading fork may be needed to get the whole root. If the plant is so large that you have to hand pull it, it may reroot if the soil is moist or rain is expected. Also, if the plant is flowering, it may make seeds even after you uproot it. Consequently, carrying along a couple of 5 gallon buckets to use for removing the weeds from the garden may help reduce subsequent weeding. Weeds that are unlikely to set seeds can be left on a hard surface like concrete or boards until thoroughly dead and then composted.

Fibrous rooted species like annual grasses and plantains are easiest to pull when the soil is starting to dry. If the soil is dry and hard, the shoot will tend to break off, leaving the root system to resprout, whereas if the soil is moist, a lot of soil will cling to the roots. If the soil is moderately dry, hitting the root crown against any hard object will knock most of the soil off the roots. This will decrease likelihood of the weed rerooting if it is left on the ground and avoid exporting your precious topsoil if it is removed from the garden.

If a few weeds with spreading rhizomes or root systems are encroaching from the edge of the garden, pulling the shoots is more effective than hoeing. Hoeing cuts the shoots near the surface whereas pulling the shoot usually brings up a long white underground shoot. This depletes the underground root-rhizome system more quickly than hoeing. Canada thistle is one such species. Since the base and underground portion of the shoot is free of thorns, the plant can be pulled from this point without heavy gloves.

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How big should a tap root be for planting?

Basically a friend got some seeds. One was broken so he germinated it for shits and giggles (his real grow won’t go on for another couple of months). Any way he was wondering how large his tap root should be before planting? Right now the seed is cracked open on one end a little with tap root is sticking out the side (I mean it’s tiny) but it’s a very noticeable germed seed. You think he should wait a day or so more and let the little root get bigger or is it ready for a planting. FYI he’s going to either use soil or a small hydro setup just for this one little seedling (would either setup require a differently sized tap root than the other?).

tilemaster
Well-Known Member

plant the tap root facing down..the minute the seed cracks and u can c it..id reccommend using tweezers to place it in ur medium..ive had bad luck touching my tap roots with my hands..and prefer to germ st8 in2 soil without the paper towel hassel and exxtra handling..but ea 2 there own..good luck

Ronjohn7779
Well-Known Member

plant the tap root facing down..the minute the seed cracks and u can c it..id reccommend using tweezers to place it in ur medium..ive had bad luck touching my tap roots with my hands..and prefer to germ st8 in2 soil without the paper towel hassel and exxtra handling..but ea 2 there own..good luck

Cool thats what I though you plant it once it cracks. Yeah I knew to plant it face down. I just didn’t know if letting the seed’s tap root get a little bit larger before planting would help out much in terms of it being more vigorous and accustom to it’s new medium. A lot of photo’s I’ve seen of germed seeds seem to have exaggerated tap root size. Most likely I imagine to illustrate a point.

RichED
Well-Known Member

yes plant as soon as bean cracks show white plant with root and pointed end down amust. then i cover with a plastic bag or ceran wrap over starter cup until shows through soil then under flour light for three weks as seedling just distilled water and thrive a little root stimulator and a drop of peroxide. fourth week veg starts transplant under big lights if limit of light is 18 inch im under at 20 inch the first week raise every week until reach loimit of ligh food also starts 4th week at 1/4 strenth feed everyother water I normally water dry for 2 days food dry for one day repeat. but what do i know growing since this January on my 4th grow lucktoyomybrother.

Ronjohn7779
Well-Known Member

Cool thanks guys. I think my buddy might just give it a day or so longer only because he has to guy some supplies. But yeah it’s pretty shocking this thing germinated. It literally was missing 2/3s of it’s shell and looked a bit crushed and miss colored. But yeah I do know a lot of the fundamentals of growing. My buddy and myself have grown a lot of other types of plants before so I don’t think he’s all too worried. Neither one of us have germed seeds in a paper towel ever so I’ve never actually seen how a tap root looks in real life.

Ronjohn7779
Well-Known Member

Also should my shine a light on the seed growing in the medium? Or should he wait till it sprouts out of the medium (i.e. the point at which it isn’t quite a seedling/still looks like a sprout)? I mean in theory wouldn’t help growth as the sprout is growing out of the medium for light? I was going to tell him to use something in the 10-20w range for this? Or is it not even needed?

tilemaster
Well-Known Member

id say sure throw a small floro or cfl above. it helps dry the soil out and create humity..especially if u cover the pots i saranwrap like dude said.. creats a humid environment..when they sprout and grow in2 bumping the saranwrap i take it off. i also use a heat pad underneath to push humidity and dry the soil..increased germ rate and speed.

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RichED
Well-Known Member

no light is needed until sprout shows through soil then right away not to close and by the way when i have seeds that wont split i use scarsification scratch sandpaper scrape along edge that splits crack open just dont go deep enough to damage seed inside.luck to you my brother

Ronjohn7779
Well-Known Member

Thanks for the great responses guys! Hopefully this seed is a female. As I said earlier this isn’t my buddies main grow. That won’t happen for a few months or so (for that grow he’s throwing down big bucks, and making some nice hydro setups/legal grow rooms). I think he’s more curious to see if this sucker will grow at this point. Not even fruit even. It’s more or less just fun science experiment. I think at most for this one little seedling my buddy is willing to commit to 20-30 dollars worth of supplies and a minimal amount of time.

godboss
Member

Basically a friend got some seeds. One was broken so he germinated it for shits and giggles (his real grow won’t go on for another couple of months). Any way he was wondering how large his tap root should be before planting? Right now the seed is cracked open on one end a little with tap root is sticking out the side (I mean it’s tiny) but it’s a very noticeable germed seed. You think he should wait a day or so more and let the little root get bigger or is it ready for a planting. FYI he’s going to either use soil or a small hydro setup just for this one little seedling (would either setup require a differently sized tap root than the other?).

Other people in this thread seem to think that it’s a good idea to plant the seed as soon as it cracks..however this can be a bad idea..the tap root is what gives the plant its early root structure..and strength..allowing them to have this before planting gives the seedling a much better chance to survive any problems it may encounter in the soil..remember..soil is a living organism and has bacteria..a seed may get halted in its early growth by encountering any numbers of chemical reactions including chlorine shock..pests..or fungus..the ones with a half inch tap root..seem to be able to cope better..

the best thing is to let the seed develop a tap root to a length of about a half inch. I am also going to recommend and assume that you knew enough to let the seed(s) bob around in a glass of water that was allowed to sit for a few hours (to allow chlorine to gas out of the water. before putting the seeds in). and then put the glass of water and seeds into an empty drawer somewhere where there are no lights..and leave it there for 12-14 hours..”longer will risk drowning the seeds”..then you should have triangle folded a and dampened brown coffee filter..not white..white ones may contain bleach..which is also chlorinated..put the coffee filter triangle in a small tray and put the seeds very gently onto the filter..”don’t squish them or they will die”..after their soak they are delicate..so do this carefully..put a “once folded” coffee filter on top of the seeds..and wet it ..

you will see the outline of the seeds through it slightly once it’s wet..put the tray back in the drawer and use the water in the cup to wet the top filter a couple times each day..DO NOT LET THE FILTER DRY OUT BUT ALSO DO NOT LET THE SEEDS SIT IN A PUDDLE..after about three days the tap root will be around a half inch on the seeds..if not leave them until they are..once the seeds are ready..plant them each in their own small 4 inch pot by poking a whole down about an inch with a chopstick or your finger..

gently place the seedling tap root down and gently push some soil in around it and then cover it gently with some more soil ( make sure you use regular potting soil with a decent amount of peril it in it..I like shultzs potting soil) spray (water @ 6.5 ph) the soil till it’s dark and wet but not puddling..place the potted plant under a 1300-2600k daylight (for vegging cycle) CFL..about 3 – 4 inches from the pot ..in about 2 days or less you will see your new seedling popping through the soil..if it takes 3 days I will be surprized..keep checking the seedling about 3 times a day..make sure to fine mist spray the soil and keep it dark..as the light will dry it out..don’t let it dry out until your plant gets about 4 inches and has its first real growth leaves..

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Then water the soil as you would with regular plants..allowing the soil to almost dry out up to an inch below surface..I usually water when I see the edges of the soil pull away from the pot sides..but for the seedling when it is still just in the baby leaves..keep the surface damp ..by watering or checking it every few hours..keep a light breeze (fan) circulating in the room..not directly on the plants though..especially when they are little. good luck

Taproot

Taproots are the thick primary root that normally grows straight down under the soil. In most cases, this is the first root that forms from the seed and is the main root anchoring system that the feeding roots grow from. As a result, the taproot provides the most nutrients to the plant. It is also the strongest and largest root and tends to burrow itself deeply into the ground.

A taproot is usually a thick root that tapers gradually. In some cases, a taproot can be forked or be framed by thinner lateral roots.

Plant roots are categorized into three main categories: taproots, branch roots, and adventitious roots .

Maximum Yield Explains Taproot

All plants have roots – the serve to supply the plaint with nutrients and moisture, and in the case of plants grown in soil, they help to anchor the plant in place. However, not all roots are the same. Pull up a plant, and you’ll find roots of all sizes and thicknesses, but you’ll most likely find that there is a thicker, longer central root off of which most other roots grow. This is the taproot.

Most plants, including cannabis plants, have a taproot. The taproot is the first root formed from the seed of the plant upon germination, and, while the plant will have other roots, it will remain the longest and thickest. It will also grow the deepest in the growing medium. Think of a carrot – the part that we consume is actually the plant’s taproot.

In some plants, such as carrots or radishes, the taproot is actually an organ that stores the major nutrients and vitamins. As a result, these taproots can be cultivated for eating. Other plants with taproots include parsnip, parsley, dandelion, sugar beet, burdock and beetroot, among others.

Not all plants have taproots, but those that do have specific benefits over those that do not. Because the taproot burrows much deeper into the ground, these plants are generally much more drought tolerant, as they can continue to locate moisture deep in the earth even in dry conditions. A butterfly weed can grow in sand or gravel because its taproot extends beyond the surface and is able to draw water along its entire depth. In addition to its water-gathering ability, a taproot provides additional stability in high winds for tall trees like the oak or ash. Another benefit is that taproots can also store nutrients for the plant, providing nutrition and helping to make plants more self-sufficient.

Of course, taproots also cause some problems. A taproot on a tree like an oak usually isn’t an issue for gardeners, but they can be problematic for weed control. Pulling a dandelion, for example, can be difficult because they generally snap off at the top of the taproot. If the taproot is not completely removed from the soil a new plant will grow from it.