Weed And Feed On New Grass Seed

Caring For Your Newly Seeded Lawn One of the biggest passions and frustrations for homeowners everywhere is maintaining a lush, green lawn. For those who have just moved into a brand new home, or Caring for freshly planted seeds in lawns is no easy task, but with the right care you can have a lush and thick turf. Read our DIY article, to learn where to begin in caring for newly planted seeds in your lawn and how to develop it into a thick vegetation. How do you get from seed to green grass? Getting new grass to grow takes effort and Know-How. Learn to tackle basic problems that affect lawn projects.

Caring For Your Newly Seeded Lawn

One of the biggest passions and frustrations for homeowners everywhere is maintaining a lush, green lawn. For those who have just moved into a brand new home, or for those who have reseeded their lawn, this article is for you. Even though how you seed your lawn is very important, what you do next will determine if your grass becomes a lawn or nothing at all.

After you have seeded your lawn, you should water it frequently. Continue to water your new grass at least twice a day and even more depending on how hot the weather is until you’ve mowed it one or twice. This can take some time and effort, so be prepared to have a system in place so you don’t miss a chance to feed your lawn what it needs to become thick and flourish. Once you have achieved a thick blanket of grass and you are able to mow it, you can establish a new watering routine that involves a less frequent effort.

Be mindful of when you should first mow your lawn. If you mow too early you can ruin your lawn and create bare spots. Try to hold off on the clippers until your grass is between 3 and 3 ½ inches long. Make sure the blade on your mower is clean and sharp, and then give your new grass its very first trim when it’s nice and dry. I use the word trim to emphasize how low you should cut your lawn. You should only attempt to cut about 1/3 of the height of your lawn. Don’t mow too often at first to avoid causing too much stress on the any seedlings that are late bloomers.

In addition to watering, you also feed it nutrients with starter fertilizer. You can grab any starter fertilizer from your local hardware or garden store. Fertilizer will provide your grass with the right proportion of nutrients new individual grass plants need to grow into thick and strong blades with a solid root structure. After several weeks, you should apply a new set of fertilizer that includes iron. The iron will give your grass the extra boost it needs to maintain its thick, green appearance. Similar to the watering schedule in the beginning, you should develop a fertilizer feeding schedule for every 6-8 weeks to provide the continuous flow of nutrients your lawn needs to combat weeds, insects, to withstand the heat, and even backyard football. When it comes to managing weeds, wait until about a solid four weeks of growth before using a crabgrass or weed control applicant. Weed control can be very strong so it’s best to make sure your grass is strong enough to take the heat. No one ever said beauty didn’t come without a little bit of pain. Use bug control and weed control as needed, but make sure to read the product label to make sure you are not using something that may be too harmful for your type of grass.

After about a solid six months of proper care, your newly seeded grass will have become your green lawn. You can be proud that both your front and backyards are green and strong. Once your lawn is nice, mature, and lush, you can develop new routines and perform other tasks that will help keep it that way.

How to Care for Newly Planted Seeded Lawn

As your lawn becomes thin, weak, or has bare brown spots then it may be time to plant new grass seeds. By planting new grass seeds you can achieve a greener and fuller lawn that will be the source of envy amongst your neighbors. Not only does a freshly planted lawn look better, but it will help prevent weeds and other diseases from growing in your turf.

Just as it sounds seeding your lawn is planting new grass seeds a few inches below the soil of your lawn. With a little time and patience your seeds will mature and sprout into healthy turf grass.

If your lawn is starting to look thin or worn out, our step-by-step DIY care guide will show you exactly what beginning gardeners or homeowners need to do when planting new seeds within their turf. By following the recommended steps and products you can effectively grow your seeds into a vibrant and thick lawn.

What Type of Grass Do You Have In Your Lawn?

Before you plant new grass seeds into your turf, it is important to know what type of grass you have in your lawn. This will be determined on the location and climate of your area.

For example, while there are many species of grasses they will belong to two groups known as warm-seasoned grass or cool-seasoned grass.

Warm-seasoned Grass

In hot or humid areas that are between 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit are best suited for warm-seasoned grasses. Typically, this will be in the southern half of the United States in states such as Texas, South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Florida, California, Arizona, Arkansas, and New Mexico.

Common species of warm-seasoned grasses are Bahiagrass, Bermudagrass, St. Augustine grass, Centipede grass, Zoysiagrass, and Carpetgrass.

Warm-seasoned grass will not thrive in cooler winter months and will become dormant typically from November to January.

Cool-seasoned Grass

Cool-seasoned grasses are often referred to as northern grasses because they are typically grown in the northern region of the United States where climates are normally between 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

Cool-seasoned grasses will grow in the winter or cooler months, and become dormant or brown in hot weather. Normally, in the second half of spring (April) and the summer months (May to August) the grass go into dormancy.

Examples of cool-seasoned grasses are Kentucky Bluegrass, Fescues, Bentgrass, Annual Ryegrass, Perennial Ryegrass, and Creeping Bentgrass.

If you are still unsure as to what type of turf your lawn has then you can consult with your local extension office, governed by the national pesticide information center or refer to Solutions Grassy Weed Control Guides.

Treatment

Before applying the following steps and products, make sure you have the appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) such as gloves, masks, safety glasses or face shield, long-sleeve shirt, long-sleeve pants, closed-toe shoes with socks, and a coverall or Tyvek suit.

Step 1: Prepare the Ground by Mowing or Raking

To help prepare your new lawn then you will need to remove existing damaged turf by either mowing or raking.

For large scale areas where the turf is dead, you will want to go ahead and mow. Adjust the blades on the mower to the lowest setting to scalp the yard. You want to scalp the yard to allow seeds to reach the soil as easily as possible. Normally, you want to avoid this, but since the turf is too far gone to recover it will not hurt to perform this step.

Now for areas where there are still patches of green turf, you will want to remove excess layer of dead grass roots and blades (known as thatch) by raking. Raking bare ground areas (will look like brown spots in your turf) before applying new seeds will also help your seeds make contact with the soil more easily and lessen compact soil.

Step 2: Apply Seed at Right Time of Year

Choose a grass seed that will thrive in your climate and location.

Warm-seasoned grass seeds should be planted in the second half of spring when the weather is warmer and to the late summer (July).

For cool-seasoned grass seeds you will want to plant in the fall (second half of August to first half of October) when the soil is still relatively warm from summer. When you plant your cool-seasoned grass you will want to give your seeds enough time to germinate two months before the first frost of winter.

Before proceeding to the following steps, wait at least 30 to 45 days to allow your seeds to become established. You may water your newly planted seeds after application.

Step 3: Water Your Seeds Infrequently

Keep in mind that a newly planted lawn will take consistent watering more than an established lawn. If not followed vigorously, then the results will not be as effective.

See also  Grape Ape Weed Seeds

There is not a precise measurement of water to be given for newly seeded turf, but you will need to keep your seeded turf moist and not to the point of run-off. If you are seeing puddles of water then you have given your seeds to much water.

We recommend using a hose-end sprayer, so you can adjust the setting to a light fan spray setting to avoid washing the seeds away from turf. If you are using a sprinkler system, then use an oscillating or rotator head sprinkler system for gently watering newly seeded turf.

Lightly water the lawn once a day in the morning and again in the evening if the seed dries out. For evening applications, spray several hours before dark to avoid your seeded turf from retaining water.

Once your seeds germinate and emerge from the surface you will keep following the recommended steps, but will need to spray an inch of water no more than once a week.

Step 4: Fertilize Turf After Seeds Become Established

Once the seeds from turf has reached an height of one to two inches then you may apply a starter fertilizer.

You will want to avoid using a weed and feed fertilizer due to these products ability to target pre-emergent weeds underneath the soil. If a weed and feed fertilizer is applied to your soil then it will inhibit your seeds from growing.

Starter fertilizer are specially formulated to contain a higher phosphorous level, the middle number in the three set of fertilizer numbers. Phosphorous is especially needed to help promote new root growth of freshly planted seeds.

Once you have selected your fertilizer you will need to use a push or broadcast spreader for application. Determine how much starter fertilizer to use by measuring the square footage of the treatment area. Follow the formula (length X width = square footage) to find out how much square footage is in your treatment area.

Then, load the measured amount of fertilizer into your spreader and begin broadcasting the product at the edge of your treatment area. You will walk all the way around your treatment area in a straight line keeping a moderate pace as you walk. Once you have treated the perimeter of your treatment area then walk back and forth across the turf until the space in the middle is covered.

After evenly applying your fertilizer you will water the lawn 1 to 2 days after.

Step 5: Apply Weed Control

You will want to apply a post-emergent herbicide like MSM Turf Herbicide when your seeded lawn has been mowed at least three times. Typically, this will be at least one to two months after seeds have emerged from turf.

Remember, when the grass exceeds a height of 3 inches you can mow your turf. If applied when grass is still young or has not been mowed three times then it may be damaged if herbicide is sprayed too soon.

We recommend using a post-emergent like MSM Turf Herbicide because it will need to make contact with the leafy plant tissue of the emerged weed. This product does not work as a pre-emergent and will not target weeds beneath the turf soil, thus it will not unnecessarily damage grass seeds.

For easier control and application upon targeted weeds, a handheld pump sprayer will work best for direct spot application on weeds. Before applying MSM Turf, calculate how much product to use based on the square footage of your treatment area. You can do this by multiplying the length and width of the treatment area together (length X width = square footage).

The general mix rate is 0.025 to 0.05 fl. oz. of MSM Turf Herbicide per 1 gallon of water per 1,000 sq. ft.

Key Takeaways

When Can I Plant New Grass Seeds?

  • Depending on the type of grass seeds and whether it belongs to warm-seasoned or cool-seasoned grass will vary the time of seeding. A general rule is if it is a warm-seasoned grass you will want to plant seeds in the first half of spring to late summer. For cool-seasoned grass seeds you will plant in the early fall (September) and at least 1 month prior to when the ground freezes in your location.

What is the First Thing To Do When Planting New Seed into Your Lawn?

  • Watering your newly seeded lawn is a crucial step that needs to be continuously completed. You will want to lightly water your seeded area until it moist, but not to the point of water gathering in puddles. For best results, water once in the morning and again in the evening if seeded area is not lightly moist. You may return to a regular water schedule when grass seeds reach a height of three inches.

What to Avoid When Caring for Newly Seeded Turf?

  • You will want to avoid treating your newly planted seeded lawn until 30 days have passed. If treated appropriately, your seeds will have become established. During this time, you may apply a starter fertilizer that contains a high phosphorous level. Do not apply a weed and feed fertilizer for this will work into turf roots to eliminate pre-emergent weeds and unintentionally kill your seeded turf. Once your turf has been mowed at least three times then you may apply a post-emergent herbicide like MSM Turf.

How to Care for Newly Planted Seeded Lawn

“Before planting seeds into your turf, examine the area for any signs of stress such as from weeds or fungi. If you do not see these signs on your turf then does not mean it is not present. To determine if you have any underlying diseases you will want to take a sample of your soil and grass and send it your local extension office or refer to our weed and fungi control guides.”

GETTING NEW GRASS TO GROW:
What You Need To Know

Getting new grass to grow can’t be that difficult, can it?

Why do so many people encounter a struggle? Is there a secret you should know? Let’s discuss the possibilities.

Do you find yourself in one of these categories:

  • You planted grass seed recently, yet your “brand new” lawn area looks like it needs renovation.
  • You’re planning and preparing to put in a lawn, and want to know what will produce the best results.
  • The next thing on your “to do” list is throwing down some grass seed, and you have no clue what you need to do or what you’re up against.

There is no mystery why the grass is greener on the other side of the fence. The neighbor knew the right things to do when he was getting new grass to grow. He knew the right time to do them, and he knew what NOT to do.

In just a few minutes, you can have that same information!

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BASIC PROBLEMS WITH
GETTING NEW GRASS TO GROW

The fundamental areas in which anyone might have trouble getting new grass to grow cover a broad spectrum. Typical difficulties that arise deal with soil, fertilizer, water, location, seed, weather and maintenance.

Each of these topics alone can cause poor results when you try to grow grass. A situation may be fairly simple to identify, but somewhat difficult, even impossible to correct.

Other times it is a combination of negative influences that can produce an inferior lawn, but the solution is relatively easy, once you understand the problem.

Let’s look at each of these factors in order, and consider what approach can prevent or correct a problem, or at least minimize the impact.

1. SOIL

Getting new grass to grow successfully is directly proportional to both the quality of the soil, and soil preparation prior to planting grass seed.

The best soil is loose, with abundant organic matter in it, and has a texture that holds moisture well, yet drains easily.
If the lawn is not yet planted, add amendments and/or new soil to provide the best growing medium.

This is probably the most important step you can invest in for getting new grass to grow well at the beginning as well as long term.

A major reason for soil preparation is to give the grass seedlings an easier start. All ground areas get compacted over time.
It is difficult for the roots of grass seedlings to penetrate hard soil. Not only is there the physical barrier, but sufficient moisture and oxygen are in short supply when the soil is compacted.

The best solution for compacted soil in an existing lawn is aeration, usually done with a power machine that can be rented. For small yards there are a few hand or foot operated tools that have mixed reviews. More will come on this topic in a later article.

See also  Texas Turf Weed And Seed

At the pre-planting stage, rent a rototiller to loosen up the soil in large areas. This is the stage at which you can add soil amendments if needed

If you’re just reseeding patches here and there, use any tool you have to work the soil, as deep as you can.

Digging with a shovel is fine, or use a cultivating tool, like the Yard Butler, after you have moistened the soil to make it soft.

After you then rake the area smooth, if the loosened area sits higher than the surrounding area you may have to remove a small amount of soil.

If you already put down seed, without any soil preparation, getting the new grass to grow well is going to be difficult.

Work at improving the health of the soil as an ongoing project. Organic lawn fertilizers can be used to build soil fertility in addition to providing excellent nutrients to help the grass.
Be aware that these natural fertilizers can take longer to show results when the soil temperature is cooler. Read another article to learn more about organic fertilizers.

Organic top-dressing amendments also help to build soil fertility. It would be difficult to use them on a newly seeded lawn if the grass has already sprouted.
You don’t want to bury the grass, and you don’t want to take a chance on uprooting the seedlings by raking the amendment around.
So reserve this treatment for a lawn that was seeded at least 2-3 months prior, when it just sits there and you haven’t been successful getting this new grass to grow past an inch or two.

You can apply gypsum to improve the texture and drainage capability of the soil. Powdered gypsum can be applied at a rate of 10 pounds per 100 sq. ft. Pelletized gypsum should be used at the rate recommended on the bag label.

Soil fertility can also be built up by the use of a mulching mower that recycles clippings to the soil in very small pieces, instead of bagging them.

Actual preparation of the soil for a new lawn, step-by-step, will be covered in a separate article.

2. FERTILIZER

Many sources will tell you to automatically add fertilizer when you plant a new lawn. Take CAUTION with this approach.
Fertilizer is not always needed at the initial stages of getting new grass to grow.
When it is required, the wrong type of fertilizer can do more harm than good.

Good soil, especially if new organic material has been added during preparation, probably has sufficient nutrients to feed new grass.
When the lawn is completely filled in, after the second or third mowing, a good slow release fertilizer is recommended to help the lawn mature.

If the soil quality is not so good, or the grass is already up but not thriving, then add only a starter type fertilizer. This type is lower in nitrogen, higher in phosphorous and potassium. An example would be 6-20-20.
(Learn about NPK Fertilizer Numbers).
A starter fertilizer stimulates root growth and sturdy blades rather than fast, lush growth that will stress a new lawn with an immature root system.

Avoid high nitrogen fertilizer, the typical lawn food. This might sound like the best thing for getting new grass to grow, but it will actually do a better job giving all the weeds a head start to compete with your lawn. After three months, if the grass has matured well, but needs a boost, switch to a regular lawn fertilizer.

There are many options with lawn fertilizer, and many opportunities to use the wrong kind or waste your money.
Be sure you understand the fundamentals of fertilizers, what they do, and how to select the most appropriate type.
Read this article to learn more about fertilizers.

WATER – WATER – WATER

If healthy soil is the most important ingredient, water is the most common problem.
Seriously, so please follow this section carefully. Hundreds of people have asked the question, “Why am I having trouble getting new grass to grow?” (old grass, too!)

Seventy percent of them have a problem with water.
Seventy percent of these troubled gardeners refuse to believe they could have a problem with water.
The significance of that? It means that half of the people who are struggling with the condition of their lawn are unwilling to look at the most likely source of the problem.

Obviously, a discussion of this topic is made difficult by the wide variety of conditions that occur in one geographic area compared to another. One gardener may rely on rainfall for most of his lawn’s needs. Another may have to use irrigation water exclusively.
Wherever you may be, at least realize the importance of proper watering during the critical stages of a young lawn. Don’t ignore the need to be diligent about this.

Insufficient water during germination can let the seed die before it comes up. Over-watering can also kill the seed. Getting new grass to grow to the point where it comes up out of the ground can almost seem to cause as much worry as a new baby. Get the details on Watering New Grass Seed.

Inadequate watering of young grass seedlings will stunt or kill them. Built-in irrigation systems are notorious for irregular coverage due to poor design or needed maintenance.

If you see a problem area in a young lawn, carefully dig up a shovelful of soil and grass from a good patch and a sick patch. Compare the soil moisture levels to see the most typical problem. Return the chunks of sod to their holes and get the hose out.

Another type of water problem is incorrect watering practices. Once the lawn is fully up, the watering frequency should be reduced to once daily.
The amount of time should be lengthened to encourage deep soil moisture and deep roots.
The watering intervals (time between waterings) should be extended as the grass matures, weather permitting.
Getting new and old grass to grow deep roots can be accoumplished by training the grass to go several days between irrigation cycles.

Use your best judgment in making these adjustments, and do it in stages. Don’t make significant changes during the hottest season when the grass is not deeply rooted.

The fall season is an excellent time to start weaning the grass away from daily watering. Weather permitting, go to watering every other day, instead of daily.
Lengthen the watering time slightly, to force the water deeper, if you can do this without getting run-off.
After about 4-6 weeks, expand the interval to water every third day if weather conditions cooperate.
Again, lengthen the watering time, to soak deep.

If you have a problem with water run-off, do this: apply half the amount of water, wait an hour (do a few other zones), then water again the second half amount. This will promote deep soaking and is better than watering smaller amounts every day.

You can also get soil penetrants to apply to the lawn. These help the water soak in. Check out this products:

Continuing to water a lawn frequently and for just a few minutes encourages the grass roots to remain at the surface. When heat or wind or other stress shows up, the grass cannot handle it. Getting new grass to grow successfully and permanently means getting deep roots to grow.

(Final Word to any Skeptics on this topic: To test how consistent the precipitation is from your sprinklers, collect a bunch of shallow containers, like tuna cans. Place them in assorted locations, run your irrigation system for a full cycle, and compare the water collected. This can be very enlightening! And try this test again at various times of day, when water pressure might be different, or wind may blow.)

LOCATION

A lawn is sometimes designed for an area after important consideration of the best setting and conditions. (Rarely!) Usually it happens to be the only place it can be. Unfortunately, some areas are not conducive to successfully getting new grass to grow.

SHADE AND TREES

Adjacent structures and trees may block and prevent a sufficient amount of sunshine necessary for grass to grow well. If you are in the planning stages, select a variety of grass that does better in a shady location. This is a compromise, since grass, by its nature, needs sun, and a shaded spot is never ideal.

If your lawn is not able to get at least 6 hours of sun each day, it will not thrive. This will probably result in the need to reseed thin areas every couple of years.

Trees compete with a lawn for sunlight, water and nutrients. First is the shade factor. Existing trees may be candidates for pruning to let more light through. This could include thinning out some of the interior branches and/or removing lower branches.

See also  Applying Weed And Feed After Seeding

Not all tree styles and structures are appropriate to these methods. Do not attempt to do this without being familiar with proper pruning methods in general as well as for your specific variety of tree.
(I am researching worthwhile resources with tree pruning guidelines, and will make a recommendation as soon as possible.)

Side-note: Do not hire a tree trimming service. IF their intention is to “top the tree”. The dense new growth that results will become a worse shade problem once it starts to spread out.
(It is not a good approach at anytime, merely an easy technique for the trimmer.)
Only hire reputable, and recommended, tree trimmers. Be sure you know what they will do, or not do, before you contract with them.

If you have a tree with exposed roots, this may be the normal growth style of that tree, or it may be the result of watering practices.
The cycle and duration of irrigation for a lawn is not adequate or appropriate for trees. It causes extensive surface roots that soak up a lot of water.
However, it is usually not possible to remove them without destabilizing or killing the tree.

It is difficult for grass (and many other landscape plants) to compete with tree roots. Getting new grass to grow may not be so difficult, as it will be getting extra watering cycles.
Keeping it growing and thriving long term is another matter. A normal supply of water may not be enough for a tree and a lawn. Are you in a position to provide extra water on a regular, long term basis if a shallow rooted tree is present?

Are you planting a tree in or near the lawn area? Develop a means of providing infrequent, but deep, soaking irrigation to trees, separate from the lawn irrigation. Encourage the roots to grow deep to follow the water, rather than spreading out into the lawn. Check the specifics on the tree growth pattern before making a selection.

Trees can dominate a landscape, and be a thing of beauty. When a tree dominates a lawn, it can cause trouble. If having a beautiful lawn is most important to you, but you have a tree that looks like it will make that impossible, consider removing it. Or replace it with one that has a more upright, narrow form or an open canopy, plus deep roots.

If your ideal landscape picture includes a beautiful, wide-spreading tree, or one with a low branch structure, consider alternatives to placing a lawn right underneath it. This would avoid a major source of difficulty with getting new grass to grow.

LAWN TRAFFIC

Does the lawn location get heavy traffic or support constant activity? These conditions require a sturdy variety of grass. During the germination and early growth period all activity must be restricted from this location.

This means the area should be completely off-limits for the first 6 to 8 weeks after seeding. Limited activity after that is best until the grass matures.

Realize that the ground is quite susceptible to compacting with all the extra watering a new lawn receives. So try to avoid traffic on new planting areas.

Be realistic in your expectations for grass in traffic areas. Picture the wear patterns that happen in a lawn on many college campuses, as students hurry from one class to another. Smart landscape architects will now wait and observe student initiated travel routes before designing a lawn area. Then they put sidewalks or other paths where the students have claimed right of passage.

Consider how your normal usage will impact your lawn project, during the growth stage and long term. Can you redirect traffic temporarily? Can you incorporate some type of path that adds value by being attractive itself in addition to taking some of the wear and tear off the grass? Many landscapes are enhanced with a well designed path made of an appropriate material.

A lawn location with a significant slope can create serious problems. It will be difficult to water adequately during the time the seed germinates, without moving the seed out of position. Ongoing irrigation will be difficult without wasting water due to run-off.

Consider using ground-cover plants on slopes, instead of grass, if possible. Alternately, investigate a few varieties of grass that are excellent plants to prevent erosion. Sheeps Fescue, Hard Fescue and Creeping Red Fescue in these situations are allowed to grow to their maximum length and drape over in a natural flowing manner. That’s right, no need to mow or trim!

Your success rate with getting new grass to grow also depends on quality seed, which is the appropriate variety, and is handled and cared for properly. Consider these factors:

  • Select the grass seed variety best suited to your area, to the conditions of your location, and to the functions it will support.
  • Check the test date on the product to see how fresh is the seed.
  • Check the germination percentage rate of your selection and apply a sufficient amount for thick coverage.
  • Plant the seed when the soil temperatures are correct for that particular variety. To understand the specifics of these last three items, see the article Grass Seed Germination.
  • Grass seed needs to be in direct contact with the soil to germinate. It needs loose soil for the roots to penetrate.
  • Cover seed with a thin layer of mulch to protect from birds and to retain moisture.
  • Keep seed and soil constantly moist during the germination time, but not soggy. See Planting Grass Seed for these last three items.

WEATHER

There is nothing we can do about the weather, right? Just try to avoid the extremes when you embark on getting new grass to grow. Exceptional heat, cold or wind can seriously hinder a young lawn. But the same conditions can kill new grass seed in the process of germinating.

Adjust watering cycles according to what the weather is doing. Reduce other stresses if possible whenever the weather presents a challenge. Mowing, fertilizing, spraying chemicals and football games are all stressful to a lawn. Maybe negative comments should be avoided too!

Get tips before you start your lawn project by reading The Best Time To Plant Grass Seed.

MAINTENANCE

Getting new grass to grow is more than just preparing, planting and watering correctly. The first two or three months after germination (the adolescent stage?) require special treatment in several ways.

  1. Wait on the initial mowing until the majority of the grass is 3 ½” high or more (for bladed grasses, not the creeping type).
  2. Raise the height of the lawnmower to take off no more than 1” on the first mowing.
  3. Later mowing should remove no more than one-third the amount of the grass blade. (If it is 3” tall, cut off 1”.)
  4. Never violate the last rule. Grass needs the surface area of the blade for photosynthesis. This produces food for the grass to grow.
  5. Keep the grass mowed at the high range suggested for the variety. Taller grass will grow deeper roots, keep the soil moist and crowd out many weeds. Keeping grass mowed short limits the amount of root growth that occurs. (Some people get a short haircut so they don’t have to cut it so often. not a good idea for grass!)
  6. The first mowing must be done with a sharp lawnmower blade. A dull blade could tear the young grass plant out by the roots instead of cutting it.
  7. All mowing should use a sharp blade. A dull blade tears the grass or smashes it off, instead of cutting. This will show as brown tips in a few days. It causes stress and makes the grass susceptible to problems, possibly disease.
  8. Don’t spray chemicals on young lawns. Weed killers and fungicides will harm young grass and might kill it. Wait until it is at least 4-5 months old, or longer depending on the strength of the chemical.

Time For Getting New Grass To Grow

Some people may just throw a bucket of grass seed out and hope for the best. Take your time if you expect results that will satisfy. The extra time and effort that you invest to do it right will reward you with fewer problems and expenses later.

If the information in this article has you re-thinking whether or not to tackle a lawn project, take advantage of other articles in this series before you decide. Lawns are a big commitment.

Alternatives to grass lawns are becoming quite popular. Investigate fully, prepare completely, do it right, then enjoy the result!

Go to Planting Grass for more info on starting grass from seed

BRING ON SPRING!
A Stronger, Greener Lawn
Starts Now.

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